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Dominica - not the Dominican Republic!

by Martin Edge
Photography by Paul Janosi

It is unlike me to write a travelogue on the pages of the Divequest
Newsletter. I¹m the photographer remember, and I feel much more comfortable
writing about underwater F stops, shutter speeds and Snell¹s Window. So, why
a travelogue now, after eight years of my association with Divequest?
The story began about two years ago after photographer Colin Bateman
and his wife Lorraine returned from Dominica after a weeks diving, extolling
its virtues above and below the water.

"We went for a Christmas break, nothing more, no expectations but this place
is fantastic. You must try it".

On viewing Colin¹s results I was immediately impressed with the range of
subjects he had found after only six days of diving. Seahorses, frogfish,
big schools of fish, crevices and caves and colour in abundance.

Some time later Peter Rowlands, founder and editor of UP magazine
wrote an article about the Island. Tales of whale watching, excellent shore
diving, rainforests and volcanoes again attracted my attention and moistened
my appetite for a new location in the Caribbean to compare with Bonaire. I
did my research, scoured the web, monitored the underwater newsgroups and
came to the conclusion that Dominica deserved a visit.

Sylvia and I planed a 6-day photo-quest for January 2004. Our choice
of accommodation was Castle Comfort Lodge and Dive Dominica run by dive guru
Derek Perryman and his wife Ginette. But before I continue, let¹s clear up
one thing once and for all! Dominica is NOT the Dominican Republic. Dominica
has the alternative name of "Nature Island of the Caribbean". It is 29 miles
long and 16 miles wide. It is the most lush, tropical and abundant
rainforest which I visited and resembles Papua New Guinea more than any
other Caribbean island which I have visited. The rainforest runs into the
sea in so many locations around the coastline. Dominica, boasts two
volcanoes with huge peaks, both a tad higher than Ben Nevis in Scotland.
There are 365 rivers, one for every day of the year, which form numerous
waterfalls, which plunge over the side of sheer walls. The scenery,
topography and views are staggering. More reminiscent of Costa Rica than a
tiny, unknown Caribbean Island. Fabulous flowers and hummingbirds, too!

Dominica is volcanic and as such has few beaches. The Atlantic side
enjoys a number of beaches similar to the dark volcanic sand of Tenerife and
Lanzarote in the Canaries. The Island is part of the Lesser Antilles and
nestles between Martinique and Guadeloupe. Both of which are visible on a
clear day. It is hard to believe that this Island has remained so
undiscovered. It is a bitter sweet irony. Whilst I am waxing lyrical about
this hidden jewel, Dominica is desperate to promote tourism to improve their
economy. If they are successful then the fragile balance of life both above
and below the waves will surely suffer.

A must see excursion is the whale watching trips which run out of
Castle Comfort Lodge. This trip boasts an 80% sighting record! We were not
disappointed either. Sperm and Bryde¹s Whales came to within a few metres of
the boat.

So what about the diving?
I expected it to be good. I had heard it was un-spoiled but neither I,
Sylvia nor the rest of the photo-quest were prepared for how pristine,
undamaged and lush the reefs were. Our favourite sites were around Scotts
Head on the calm west coast near to the capital and dive base Roseau. The
Pinnacles was for me the best wide-angle dive I have had in Caribbean
waters. The highlight is several large swim-throughs, which cut straight
through the pinnacles. The walls are covered with sea fans, sponges and
trees of black coral. The condition of both hard and soft corals at all the
sites we visited was truly pristine. We are planning a second photo-quest to
the island for the same time next year. Some time in late January or early
February. The weather and visibility were superb so why change it.
Take a look at the Divequest brochure, the island¹s web site and dive
destinations. It is a hidden jewel both above and below. Just remember. It¹s
Dominica! Not the Dominican Republic.




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